Monday, 30 September 2024

Fury Road

 

What's this?  A slightly moist railway station in the West Midlands on a weekday?  Are we back?

We are.

This is Bilbrook, on the line between Wolverhampton and Shrewsbury, and twenty four hours later trains would be unable to run on this route because the tracks at Wellington were flooded after torrential rain.  For me, it was just a little damp, a bit soggy almost, as I went up to the road and took the sign selfie.


Some towns are, let's be honest, overburdened with assets.  I don't want to say they should have them taken away, but I'm not entirely sure why Bilbrook station exists.  It's less than a mile from Codsall, and simply serves the eastern side of a perfectly ordinary Staffordshire village.  There are entire towns in Greater Manchester that haven't got that concentration of convenient transport facilities.  


It was nice enough, of course, with a strip of shops and a Co-op and a Costa, but it wasn't a throbbing metropolis.  There wasn't even a car park for the station, which would've sort of justified its existence as a park and ride.  No, it was simply that the people of Codsall were blessed with two stations instead of one.

Look, I'm going to be honest: I don't think it'll rival the Eras tour for record-breaking.  Boundary changes meant that Codsall's old seat of South Staffordshire was reformed into a new one, inherited by Mike Wood; the old MP was Gavin Williamson, and he moved across to a new seat vacated by the retirement of Bill Cash.  If you looked at that list of politicians and shuddered, I'm right with you.  Also note that even after the 2024 election - and indeed, the previous 14 years of Tory rule - this area remained very blue indeed.  We were definitely out of the West Midlands conurbation here.

I walked along the Wolverhampton Road in a state of pent up, overwhelming frustration.  Occupying the pavement ahead of me was a lady, of a certain age and of a certain physicality, who was having a lovely little stroll.  Which is fine, of course; not everyone power walks through their life like me.  What was irritating though was that she weaved all over the pavement, seemingly oblivious to anyone behind her, occupying a large portion of the walkway and stopping me from getting by.  I hated that woman.  I hated her passionately and irrationally.  

I finally managed to get by her, then waited at a pelican crossing for the green man.  That Bloody Woman appeared behind me and walked straight across the road, blithely ignoring all the traffic and the signals, and therefore put herself and her turtle speed in front of me again.  I wondered what the penalty for manslaughter was.  I got by, in the end, and she continued on her merry way, completely unaware that she could've been horribly murdered if I'd had to stare at her Sainsbury's carrier bag for one more minute.

There were a lot of semis and nice big houses, a few older, but most mid-20th century.  A field was posted with a notice asking you to clean up after your dog, and then I was entering Codsall properly, a village that really, really likes pretzels.

Before you get in the comments, I am of course aware that it is actually the Stafford Knot, the symbol of the county.  The village marker was erected to mark the Queen's Diamond Jubilee, and I realised that the nation had very different Jubilees according to where they lived.  I can't remember it featuring in my life at all; I don't remember street parties or local events with dignitaries and commemorative plaques.  2012 was the Olympic year, as far as I'm concerned, and very little else happened (until Skyfall was released in the autumn, obviously).

Codsall had a lovely little high street, with pubs and shops and a small square that was being picked over by landscapers from the council.  One of the pubs was advertising its Festive Feasts menu and we'll say no more about that, thank you very much; let's get Hallowe'en out the way first.  There was a closed restaurant called The Meat House which is a really unappetising name for an eatery.  I found myself imagining them plonking massive hunks of meat on your table without vegetables or sauces, like a Brazilian rodizio restaurant without any elegance.

I went in the Coop (the one in Bilbrook has the blue Co-op branding while the one in Codsall has the green Coop logo used by the Midcounties and abroad; the lack of a hyphen means I read it differently) and I found the staff hovering in the doorway.  They were looking out over the car park at one particular car and, especially, how it had been left.  I will present this car to you now.

The debate was - and I think it's a reasonable one - what the hell happened here?  Had someone experienced a medical emergency?  Had they broken down?  Was it abandoned, perhaps by a scally joy rider?  I bought my bottle of water and walked back out and they were still there.  "Perhaps it's stuck in a pothole?" one of the staff was saying.

Fortunately, I got the answer, because the person leaving the store not long after me was the driver.  She was a woman in her fifties carrying a small bag of shopping; she got in the car and drove away.  It seemed there was no emergency, no problem at all.  She'd simply decided to leave her car there while she went in the shop.  Human beings really are awful sometimes.

I was at the southerly end of the shopping precinct now, by the Greggs and a wine bar and a vape-slash-coffee shop; I can only imagine what the breath of the people who uses that smells like.  I went to use the pelican, again pushing the button, because am a good well-brought up boy and I know my Green Cross Code; again someone shot straight across the street without pausing for the signal.  This time it was an elderly lady on crutches, who limped across the road and forced the cars to stop to let her slow-moving body by.  If only there were some device that would have done this for her automatically and without making her risk her life!

Good lord, this is a grumpy post, isn't it?  I don't think there was a single person that day I had any time for.  I'm thinking of that maxim: if you run into an asshole in the morning, you ran into an asshole. If you run into assholes all day, you're the asshole.  I'm wondering if all these ladies I've bitched about went home to their husbands and complained about the astonishingly rude fat bloke they ran into in town.  I should say all my anger and frustration and contempt for humanity was entirely inside my own head.  I didn't say a word to the people who crossed me.  I wasn't crashing round Codsall smacking old ladies in the head and screaming obscenities.    

I could've actually drowned my sorrows at Codsall station.  The ticket office has been converted into a pub, and it was open at 11:30 in the morning.  I hovered outside; I had half an hour before my train.  However, drinking a pint before twelve o'clock felt like the top of a very slippery slope, and it looked like the kind of pub where they'd look at you with disdain if you ordered something non-alcoholic, so instead I sat on the platform and ate my sandwich and drank my fizzy water.

Codsall's footbridge looks authentically old, and it sort of is.  The listed feature had sat happily across the tracks for over a century and a half when, in 2005, a road/rail crane smashed into it and effectively destroyed it.

It caused a debate: restore what was left of the original, or build a new one.  Heritage won out, and they scraped together whatever bits of cast iron they could from the wreck and incorporated them into a new structure.  It's not entirely identical - it's slightly higher, to reflect changing construction standards on the railway and presumably to avoid passing cranes - but if you didn't know the story behind it, you'd never know.


I went to three more stations that day, plus a museum and a pub, but I think I should probably write about that in another post.  This one has come across as so ill-tempered even I'm surprised.  I'll come back when I'm a bit less furious.


Sunday, 22 September 2024

Swedish Smörgåsbord

 The full Stockholm Adventure, linked for ease of use:

INTRO - Swedish Meathead

DAY ONE: THE RED LINE (SOUTH)

Norsberg to Vårby Gård - (Just Like) Starting Over

Vårberg to Axelsberg - happy dot gif

Örnsberg to Midsommarkransen - Sorry, I Cannot Hear You, I'm Kinda Busy

Gamla Stan to Liljeholmen (plus Stockholm Södra) - Ödds & Södra

DAY TWO: THE GREEN LINE (NORTH)

Hässelby Strand to Blackeberg - Blood and Thunder

Islandstorget to Stora Mossen - Layers

Alvik to Hötorget - Jet Set Willy

DAY THREE: THE BLUE LINE

Hjulsta to Sundbybergs Centrum - Blue Is The Warmest Colour

Solna Strand to Solna Centrum - A Gay Day

Näckrosen to Akalla - As Below, Above

Stadshagen to Kungsträdgården (plus a ferry) - Me Time

DAY FOUR - THE GREEN LINE (SOUTH)

Farsta Strand to Sandsborg - Philistine

Blåsut to Skarpnäck - The Fly In The Ointment

Gullmarsplan to Medborgarplatsen - The Long Haul

Stockholm Central/T-Centralen/Stockholm City - The Power of Three

DAY FIVE - THE RED LINE (NORTH)

Mörby Centrum to Universitetet - Bullet Points

Tekniska högskolan and Stadion - Stating The Obvious

Östermalmstorg to Ropsten - One Hundred and Out

The Lidingöbanan - Notes from a Tramline

The Spårvägsmuseet - Museum Piece

DAY SIX - ODDITIES

Mopping Up

And that's the end of the Stockholm summer on the blog.  It's been a long, long journey for all of us.  Writing about one hundred stations is a job in itself, but add in how interesting and beautiful the Tunnelbana is and it's a massive task.  I hadn't realised, sitting at home with an Excel spreadsheet, how big it all was, and how long it would take to do, but I am so glad I did.  Stockholm will now always be a very special city to me.  Thank you for sticking with me over this journey and rest assured, I will soon be back on the branch lines of the West Midlands.

If your appetite has been whetted by these posts, firstly, go to Stockholm.  It's ace.  Secondly, consider buying the book A Guide To The Art In The Stockholm Metro by Marie Andersson.  It was absolutely invaluable to me the whole trip and it features stunning photographs by Hans Ekestang.  It also covers the artwork at other transport hubs in the city, like bus termini and commuter railway stations, plus a preview of the works that will go into the stations on the new extensions opening over the next few years.  I got my copy from Sven-Harrys Konstmuseum (that's a link) and don't worry, I don't get any kind of kickback if you buy it from there.  I just want to share the joy.

Thursday, 19 September 2024

Mopping Up

 I've been on holiday.

Don't panic; this isn't the beginning of an eighteen part series on the underground stations of Buenos Aires.  (Although if anyone would like to give me the money to go to Argentina to write an eighteen part series on Buenos Aires, feel free.  I've been watching Celebrity Race Across The World and Argentina looks amazing).  No, this was a holiday with the BF in France, and it mostly involved doing this:

However, the trip to Nice meant I didn't finish the Sweden trip write up. Oh yes, there's more!  Try to conceal your excitement.  On my last day in Stockholm, my flight back to Manchester wasn't until the evening, so obviously I had to lark about on the railways for a bit until it was time to go home.  I'll try and keep this brief.

The Roslagsbanan: Stockholms Östra to Vallentuna

Stockholms Östra is the terminus of the Roslagsbanan, the light railway that goes through the north-east of the city region and which I previously yammered on about in the post about Universitetet.  One look at the station and you know that this is the unwanted child of the SL network; it's been done up recently, apparently, but it was still basically a few platforms behind a building with very little in the way of facilities or excitement.  (I will emphasise I was there on a Sunday morning, so maybe it's a throbbing hotspot on a Monday).

With it being the weekend, I expected it to be relatively peaceful there, but actually the station was abuzz with Gentlemen Of A Certain Type.  I'd followed two of them out of the Tengiska högskolan tunnelbana station, a pair of excitable teen boys who were definitely not the type to smoke fags and drink Mad Dog 20/20 on their lunch hour.  They had backpacks and big headphones and were chatting away to one another, almost over one another, and I recognised them as Railway Fans.

It seemed I'd arrived at Östra on a day when there was going to be heritage trains running, and an unfair part of me would say, "how can they tell?"  That rickety thing on the platform above is the normal engine for the service and it looks like it should be carrying a worried defector to the Russian border in a Cold War drama.  

In fairness, when my train turned up, it was a much newer model, with decent suspension and a less rickety air.  It was soundly ignored by the Men Who Like Trains, who were dashing down the platform in search of more niche thrills.  Good luck to you, fellas.


I took the train to Vallentuna, towards the top of the Karsta line (number 27).  Why did I pick this particular spot?  It was as good as any, I suppose.  It was a small suburb.  It had a bus that would take me away from the Roslagsbanan to my next station.  Why not?


Actually the main reason I went there was so I could make this joke on Twitter.


One like.  You people don't deserve me.


A brief turn around the block revealed a small pedestrianised shopping centre with a Coop and a library, a fire station, and some teenagers being dead excitable as they headed into town for hi-jinks.  Meanwhile, I waited at a bus stop for my ride.


Upplands Väsby


This is a commuter station and is in an area that felt distinctly down at heel.  I'm probably going to get a bunch of comments from irate Swedes telling me that this is in fact Stockholm's version of Hampstead but the buildings we passed on the bus looked tired and unedifying, and the people waiting with me on the platform had a vaguely grimy air to them.


The Pendeltåg is the heavy rail network around the city, the one that descends into a tunnel to go to Stockholm City and out the other side.  It was particularly well patronised that day, as I was about to discover.


Solna


I'd planned a little trip to Solna because it's fast developing into the Stratford of Stockholm.  What was just a single stop on the Pendeltåg has been joined in recent years by the terminus of the Tvärbanan, the cross-city tram line, and is about to get the end of the Green Line extension too.


One of the main reasons for this significant upgrade in facilities was the construction of what is currently known (for sponsorship reasons) as the Strawberry Arena.  This is the Swedish FA's new national stadium (which is why the new Green Line station will be called Arenastaden rather than Solna).  It's also the home of the AIK football team and, as it turned out, they were having a match not long after I arrived at the station, meaning there were crowds of people in scarves heading that way.  I decided to skip having a look at the arena and instead went into the nearby Mall of Scandinavia to find myself a sandwich.


It's a Westfield Mall and if you told me they'd copied and pasted the plans for Westfield Stratford and added Swedish subtitles I'd have believed you.  Inside it was the same copy book of dark malls constantly curving around on themselves so you couldn't see what was ahead, facilities hidden to the side, pointless kiosks getting in your way.  Lots of glowing lights and not much actual substance.


I ate my sandwich on the plaza outside, watching the crowds push by, then walked round the block to the back entrance to Solna.  This was a lot quieter, as it opened out into a residential district, and the only excitement here was some lads with backpacks being dropped off by a very battered car.


But wait!  There is a little more.  I couldn't let my final post about Stockholm go by without mentioning The Art.


By Olle Brand, it's this odd bronze shape on the platform.  It can't compete with the magnificence of Solna Centrum... but let's face it, what can?

Tuesday, 3 September 2024

Museum Piece

 

Not far from Ropsten station, a short walk round the back of some sports courts, is the Gasverket district.  As the name - and the architecture - implies, this used to be the site of Stockholm's gasworks, until technological advances rendered them obsolete.  The natural response to this was to build a new district here; close to the T-bana, overlooking the coast, with new schools and facilities to encourage growth.

One way to encourage people to visit your new district is to locate a tourist attraction there, and in 2022 the Spårvägsmuseet, or Tramway Museum, opened in the former scrubbing plant for the gasworks.  It covers all of Stockholm's public transport and it is bloody marvellous.


I wasn't even planning on visiting.  It was only when I'd come out of Ropsten station that I'd spotted the board pointing me in its direction.  With the Lidingöbanan behind me, and it still being the afternoon, I thought why not get a bit of culture?  I'd come all the way to Stockholm and not visited a single tourist hotspot; what could be more on brand than this one?


Every aspect of the network is covered here.  At the top, you get a historical perspective; the evolution of Stockholm's transport, with ferries, horse-drawn carts and the like.  As you work your way down, you advance through time, with social and engineering advances covered equally.  You get vehicles:


You get architectural features:


You get pieces about uniforms and the people who wore them:


You get interactive displays with saucy looking actors:


I was particularly taken with the map gallery, as you'd expect, which included T-bana maps from both the past...


...and the future:


I mean, it's all incredible.  I wandered around with a giddy smile on my face, enjoying every moment of it.  I'll also point out that every single label is in both Swedish and English, meaning us ignorant Brits can enjoy the museum just as much as the locals.  We are so lucky.


As you'd expect, the museum is very popular with young children, with plenty of interactive buttons and videos and little games for them to play.  It was a weekend afternoon and the whole building echoed with excited screams.  There's also a tiny train for them to ride and it is adorable.


My only complaint is that the shop's a bit rubbish.  The London Transport Museum has taken way, way, way too much of my hard earned cash over the years, and I looked forward to handing over an enormous amount of money at its Stockholm equivalent.  I'd not bought any souvenirs of my trip and I thought maybe I could get a nice t-shirt with the circle T logo, or some pointless and yet lovely ornament.


No such luck.  The museum shop is very much child-oriented and so none of the t-shirts were available in adult sizes.  Worse, most of its merch seemed to be aimed at school parties with a few kroner to spend - post it notes, erasers, badges and the like.  Nothing a grown up transport nerd could spend his cash on.  In the end I bought three books, one about each of the T-bana lines, even though they were in Swedish; I wanted to buy something and I can never resist a book.  I'll have to read them through the lens of Google Translate.


When I got home I sent the museum an e-mail, politely complaining that I had a load of money I literally couldn't spend. I got a very nice reply from an Eijla Berglund, who's in charge of the store, saying that they're definitely hoping to upgrade it and will have more nerdy adult stuff later in the year.  Oh no, I'll have to go back now, what a shame.


Funnily enough, not long after I returned to the UK, the BBC published an article saying that this area was exactly what Birkenhead was after.  It named this specific district as the ideal for when Birkenhead builds its Dock Branch Park, together with its own transport museum.  The Scouse version is sadly entirely dependent on external funding and is significantly less ambitious; the article mentions that the hope is for 1200 new homes, while Stockholm is delivering 12,000.  I'd love to see this level of dense, well-built regeneration in Birkenhead, but it'll probably end up being a load of Barratt Homes and empty plots with a possible start date of 2054.  (I first covered The Transport Shed on the Dock Branch in 2021; there's been absolutely no progress since and now they've concluded it's too expensive to build and are going to expand the existing Wirral Transport Museum.  Don't hold your breath).  


In the meantime, go to Stockholm.  Go to the Spårvägsmuseet.  It's ace.